Saturday, March 22, 2008

Day 03a Lhasa - Jokhang

The Jokhang or Tsug Lakhang (central cathedral) is Tibet's most sacred temple. The temple was built in the 7th century by King Songtsen Gampo. In order to promote friendly relationships with the neighboring countries, he successively married Princess Bhrikuti of Nepal and Princess Wen Cheng of the Tang Dynasty. When the two wives arrived in Tibet, each brought a statue of Jowo Sakyamuni. To house the Buddha brought by Princess Wen Cheng and Princess Burikuti, King Songtsem Gampo constructed the Little Jokhang and Jokhang respectively. (Although today the two statues have switched location, i.e. the statue brought by Princess Wen Cheng is now housed in the Jokhang.)

The Jokhang Temple was built on the former site of a lake. According to the legend, the lake site was chosen after many failed attempts to build a temple in the region. Princess Wen Cheng advised that the geography of Tibet was very much like a hag, with the lake at the heart. In order to build the temple the hag must be demolished by filling and leveling the lake using 1,000 sheep to carry soil from a mountain far away. When the temple was done, it was called Ra-Sa-Vphrul-Snang ('ra' meaning sheep and 'sa' meaning earth in Tibetan) to commemorate those sheep.

Whether the legend is true or not, this temple brought Buddhism into Tibet and became an inseparable part of Tibetan history and culture. The city of Ra-Sa grew around the temple and over time, become known as Lhasa, a holy land.

The main hall of the temple houses the Jowo Shakyamuni Buddha statue brought to Tibet by Princess Wen Cheng, perhaps the single most venerated object in Tibetan Buddhism. The statue of Sakyamuni is a rare treasure. When Sakyamuni was alive, he disagreed with the idea of 'personal worship' and did not allow likenesses of himself to be created. Only three statues, designed by he himself, were permitted to be sculpted during his lifetime. The first is a likeness of him at age eight; the second shows him at age twelve when he was still a prince of India; and the third is of him as an adult. The statue kept in the Jokhang Temple is the statue of Sakyamuni at age twelve.

We did not enter the main hall of the Jokhang to see the statue, since we have seen enough statues at the Potala. In any case like the Potala photography is not allowed inside.




1 to 3. The front entrance of the Jokhang is always full of devoted pilgrims.









4. This is formerly Dalai Lama's room in the Jokhang.



5. In the main courtyard of the Jokhang.



6. View of the Potala from the rooftop of the Jokhang.



7. A huge prayer wheel at the entrance of the Jokhang.



8. Barkor Square from the rooftop of the Jokhang, with Potala in the background.



9. Ornaments on the rooftop of Jokhang - the two golden deer flanking a Dharma wheel is iconic.



10. Close up look at the gilted roof of the Jokhang.



11. The rooftop of the Jokhang overlooking the main courtyard.



12. Pilgrims cicumambulate the courtyard of the Jokhang.

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